FWF Misc Log 
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 April 11, 2017

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FWF Misc
There are a bunch of details forward of the firewall that just don't have another category to be filed under so I put them here.

July 29, 2003 - 2.5 hours
Installed the deyhdrator plugs into the top spark plug holes. Punched the hole for the cabin heat box. I had to install the fuel injection servo temporarily so that I could locate the holes for the mixture and throttle cables to pass through the firewall. I punched those holes as well as the hole for the mixture cable.

This is a dehydrator plug. The blue stuff is a desicant that absorbs moisture and turns pink when it is saturated.

These are the automotive spark plugs and adapters that are on the top cylinders. I can use auto plugs because of the Lightspeed Ignition.

This is the stick on template for the eyeball control cable pass thru's.

July 31, 2003 - 0.5 hours
I drilled the holes for the cabin heat box to mount to the firewall. I have decided to use screws and nutplates instead of rivets since I may have to remove the box to get to the prop governor.

August 7, 2003 - 1.5 hours
I finished installing the little eyeball cable penetrations on the firewall for the throttle, mixtrure and prop control cables. I still need to put in two more. These were a little more trouble than I thought they would be but they look cool when finished.

These little eyeball pass thru's are great for getting control cables through the firewall. This one is for the prop control.

The one on the left is for the throttle, the other is the mixture.

November 4, 2003 - 2 hours
Took the Prop out of the box. It's a thing of beauty. I put it up on the work bench where I could get to it and started building the rear spinner bulkhead which is two parts riveted together but the hard part is cutting the strange shaped hole to fit around the prop.

Isn't it beautiful

November 15, 2003 - 3 hours
Primed the spinner bulkhead parts, and riveted the rear spinner bulkhead together. Then I mounted the bulkheads on the prop and made a template to trim the cutouts on the spinner. I used the template to cut the spinner. It took some time but it came out okay. I still need to trim the cutouts a little bit more but for now I just wanted to make sure that I wouldn't have to space the bulkheads any to get it all to work. When all that was done I mounted the prop to the engine. It is possible to do this alone but I won't do it again.

This is the rear spinner bulkhead installed on the prop

The prop with the front and rear spinner bulkheads.

I used a cardboard box to make a template for the prop cutout

I used the template to mark the cutouts on the spinner

The spinner fits pretty well but it will still need to be trimmed a little bit to handle the movement of the blades.

I temporarily mounted the prop on the engine so that I could get started on the cowling.

December 2, 2003 - 3 hours
I still hadn't ever gotten around to finishing the brake installation on the main gear. So I spent some time tonight getting all the parts made and putting the rest of the main gear parts together.

December 11, 2003 - 1.2 hours
Drilled holes in the axles for the cotter pins, and installed the brake calipers.

Here is an outside view of the finished wheel.

The brakes are installed and safetied.

January 1, 2004 - 3 hours
I spent some time fiddling with some firewall forward stuff. I am not happy with where I mounted the capacitor for the SD-8 alternator because the wiring get's in the way of removing the battery. I'll either move the capacitor or change the wiring somehow. I also moved the ground strap to the engine since it also made it impossible to remove the battery. I made a bracket for the purge valve control line that attaches to one of the engine case bolts.

January 8, 2004 - 2 hours
Don came over tonight and made me a beautiful prop governor oil line. The engine came with a hose that was WAY too long (It looks like was probably for an O-540), and I never liked the hose idea anyway. So since Don is one of the best instrument hands on the planet I traded him some BBQ for his skills. I am very happy with it. It's made out of 316SS 3/8x0.035 seamless tubing.

This the governor tubing that Don made for me.

Another shot of the governor line.

February 9, 2004 - 2 hours
Finished the hose that connects the AFP purge valve to the firewall bulkhead. I also managed to get the oil cooler installed.

This is the end of the AFP purge hose that I made. It took me a while to figure out that hose clamp but a pair of vice grips and a small crescent wrench did the trick.

Left side view of the oil cooler.

Here you can see how the hoses are routed to the oil cooler.

February 29, 2004 - 5 hours
I need to get the firewall arrangement sorted out so I started installing as much of that stuff as I can. I figure that the wiring will be the easiest to route around stuff so I want the controls and hoses to be installed before I get too carried away with wiring. I spent today installing the fuel servo and the throttle, prop and mixture controls. The throttle control I bought requires a smaller hole than what I had drilled so I had to make another mounting plate, then I ran the prop control to the governor since this was the one that really had me worried since it runs right past the oil cooler hoses and the spark plug wires on the left mag. The prop cable fits like a glove but when I put the throttle and mixture cables in I realized that they were probably too long. I'll play with them later to see if I can make them fit better but I may re-order them.

I temporarily mounted the engine controls to the panel so that I could get a feel for whether they were all going to work or not.

I was a little worried about how the governor control was going to make it's way past the oil cooler line and the mag. It looks like it was meant to go there.

Another shot of the governor control cable going past the oil cooler line.

Here is the throttle side of the AFP fuel servo. I just clamped the brackets together just to see how it would fit. I may get a new throttle cable.

The mixture side of the fuel servo looks the same except different. It doesn't fit well at all, that bracket has to be at an angle to line up the cable properly which makes me think that I messed up placing the hole in the firewall, but if I move the hole over then the engine mount will be in the way.

I decided that there needs to be a spring return on the AFP purge valve. If the control cable ever was to come loose it would be possible for this valve to shut the engine down. The spring pulls the valve to the R position which runs the fuel into the divider.

March 1, 2004 - 1.7 hours
I made the little bracket to mount the mixture cable to the fuel servo. Rerouted the mixture and throttle controls to try and get them to fit better. Ran the control cable for the AFP purge valve.

March 9, 2004 - 3 hours
I can't believe it took me 3 hours to install a few nutplates but these things are a pain when they are on the firewall. I managed to get the nutplates for the inside cover, the oil pressure line and the crankcase vent line drilled I got most of them installed and I noticed that I had used nuts to install the sender manifold. That will never do, so I put some nutplates there too. I also put the pipe fittings in the sender manifold for the oil pressure and fuel pressure. I almost got it installed again when I realized that I had installed the wrong nutplate on one of them. One day I'll learn to go to bed when I get tired.

This is where the crankcase vent line attaches to the engine.

The vent tube runs down the firewall just to the pilots side of the governor recess

Here is the fuel pressure line attaching to the fuel pump.

March 11, 2004 - 0.7 hours
Replaced that nutplate behind the sender manifold, mounted the manifold and attached the hoses.

The manifold is mounted and the oil pressure (top) and fuel pressure (bottom) hoses are attached.

March 14, 2004 - 4 hours
I pulled the exhaust and drilled the holes for the EGT probes. I installed the bayonet fittings for the CHT probes and then installed the the exhaust, EGT prbes and CHT probes. I also put the oil temperature sensor in oil filter adapter.

Here is a horrible picture of the bayonet fitting for one of the CHT probes.

This is a better picture of the CHT fitting after the thermocouple has been installed.

This is the EGT probe on the #2 cylinder.

March 28, 2004 - 2 hours
Started work on the spinner. The first step was to get the spark plugs out of the engine so I could turn it over safely. Then turning the prop over and over to check that the spinner turns true, with no wobble.

The high tech way to get the spinner true.

March 29, 2004 - 1 hours
I sanded on the cowling a little bit. Also did some more work on the spinner. Still trying to get it lined up just perfect. I have had to sand a little bit of the inside.

April 1, 2004 - 1.5 hours
More work on the spinner.

April 3, 2004 - 4.5 hours
Made the gap covers for the spinner and finished up all the drilling and riveting of the nutplates on the spinner. There are 22 screws holding that thing on. That is a lot of holes. The spinner is finished except for paint.

This is what the gap cover looks like before riveting.

A trick to these K1000-8 nutplates is too leave the screw hole #30 and use the nutplate itself as the pattern and then drill the screw hole out to #19. This is the front bulkhead for the spinner.

Here is the finished spinner. I can't wait to see it turning.

April 16, 2004 - 4 hours
I finished mounting the the current sensors. Cut a hole and installed a snap bushing for the wires to go through the firewall on the right side of the plane. I piddled around with some of the smaller wires on the contactors. I also worked on the control cable brackets.

This is the hall effect current sensor for my GRT EIS 4000 engine monitor.

This is the current sensor for the SD-8 backup alternator.

I installed a small plastic snap bushing for the wires on the right side of the aiplane to pass. I'll eventually fill this with high temp RTV.

April 17, 2004 - 5 hours
Finished and remounted the control cable mounts. Installed the exhaust mounts, and while I was at it I put the cabin heat muff on. I had forgotten about the cabin heat muff and had an interference issue that I had to work out. Those exhaust mounts were far more difficult that I thought they would be and I advise everybody to do it earlier in the process than I did.

This is the finished throttle cable bracket. I had the throttle cable there temporarily just to make sure everything would work.

It's hard to get a shot of the mixture cable bracket but here it is.

Left side exhaust mount.

Left side of the crossover exhaust mount

Right side exhaust mount bracket.

Right side exhaust mount

This is the cabin heat muff.

April 19, 2004 - 2 hours
I had to cut the adjustment arm down on the alternator. This is the long arm with the curved slot in it that allows you to adjust the belt tension. It was too long and with the correct belt installed I couldn't get the bolt in, so I drilled another hole in it on the end that mounts to the engine and cut the old hole off. I went ahead and mounted the alternator and then spent some time tidying up some of the wires on the engine. I also started working on the alternator blast tube.

The alternator is finally in it's permanent home

I used an Adel clamp, clamped to the governor oil like to secure the alternator and thermocouple wires.

April 20, 2004 - 0.75 hours
Finished the alternator blast tube.

I decided to put in a blast tube for the main alternator. It is internally regulated and doesn't have a fan so I wanted to get some air on the diodes and the regulator.

July 5, 2004 - 3.5 hours
I spent a little time today finishing up a few details that I wanted to get done and couldn't until the panel was in. I made the new throttle and mixture cable brackets. The old ones were made from 062 angle and I wasn't sure they'd stand up to the vibration. I replaced them with 0.125 angle. I also fixed the cabin heat muff. It was loose on the exhaust after tightening the hose clamps all the way. Then I mounted the throttle/prop/mixture/purge controls under the instruent panel and ran the cables through the firewall. I wanted to have those installed before getting too carried away on wiring. Wires are easy to route around control cables but control cables aren't so easy to route around wires.

This is where the mixture (left) and throttle (right) cables go through the fuel pump / cabin heat cover. This photo makes it look like those are really sharp bends but they are not as bad as it looks.

This picture shows the throttle cable coming through the firewall, and attaching to the AFP servo.

July 21, 2004 - 3.5 hours
Connected the Mixture, Governor and Purge control cables to the AFP and prop governor. Reinstalled the fuel tank vents (hopefully this will be the last time). I also started scratching my head trying to figure out the best way to get the cabin heat control cable through the firewall without interfering with too much stuff. The jury is still out.

September 11, 2004 - 2.1 hours
I couldn't bring myself to do any wiring today so I piddled around 'under the hood' I reset my mixture cable according to info that I got from AFP. I don't quite have enough travel to move the mixture arm. I am talking just a little bit too short like 1/32". I had it where I got ICO but not full rich. AFP said do the opposite since I'll be killing the engine with the purge valve. I also installed the fuel pump drain line.

This is the fuel pump drain line.

September 26, 2004 - 1 hours
Ran the cabin heat cable through the firewall and hooked it up. I also started putting those stainless firewall penetration sheilds around the grommets where the cabin heat cable and the purge valve cable come through the firewall.

October 2, 2004 - 2.5 hours
Started fitting the filtered air box to the engine. I started by fluting the flanges of the mouting plate and getting the sleeve that is on the AFP turned so that the inlet lines up with the opening in the cowling.

October 3, 2004 - 3.2 hours
I finished getting the neck of the FAB lined up with the cowling. It took some pretty sharp flutes to get the top plate to bend enough. Then I spent a long time shaping and forming the foam block that is used to form the inlet transition. After all that it only took a few minutes to layup the glass on the foam.

Used Bondo body filler to hold the foam block to the induction air inlet on the cowling

Test fitting the filtered air box. Note: The split ring is installed upside down here. It actually goes underneath that plate. I figured it out and fixed it later.

This is the beginnings of the shaping of the foam block for the air inlet

Once I layed the glass on the foam I put a rubber glove and some peel-ply in the hole and inflated the rubber glove to hold it all. It worked pretty well.

October 5, 2004 - 1 hours
Trimmed and sanded on the inlet duct for the air box. I think I am going to have to cut part of it and re do it but we'll see once I get it trimmed back to the right length.

This is what the inlet duct looked like right after the fiberglass cured

I think this will turn out nice.

October 7, 2004 - 1 hours
Trimmed and sanded on the inlet duct some more. Apparently I didn't get the cloth layed down very well on the left bottom so I cut that out, did the foam thing and re-layed some glass on it.

October 10, 2004 - 1 hours
Sanded the inlet duct some more since I had to do that layup to fix it. I took the filter box off and started cutting and drilling the holes for the alternate air door.

October 12, 2004 - 1 hours
Finished the alternate air door in the air filter box.

This is the finished alternate air door. The black line is roughly where the inside of the filter will be.

October 14, 2004 - 1 hours
Finsished the air filter box.

Behold the finished airbox.

October 17, 2004 - 0.75 hours
I didn't like the cheesy little tab washers that came in the FAB kit for mounting the airbox mount plate to the AFP servo. I had some drilled cap-screws that were the right diameter and pitch but they were too long. So I cut them down to size and instlled them. Then I safety wired them. I really don't want anything to come loose in there and get sucked into the engine.

This is the filtered airbox mounting plate. I safetied the bolts to make sure they don't wind up inside the engine.

February 5, 2005 - 3.5 hours
Today I worked on a bunch of little details. I installed a little switch for the canopy latch warning light. I worked on the new fuel selector plate (I was never happy with the old one.) I replaced all the nylok nuts that I had in the engine compartment. I also put the washers on each end of the tubes on the oil cooler. It seems that having the raw aluminum tubing against the oil cooler flanges is causing some pre-mature failure. The fix is to shorten the tubes and install some washers between them and the flanges.

This little switch is mounted to the roll bar and gives me an indication on the annunciator if the canopy is not closed and latched (yes latched).

I had trouble finding screws and a tap small enough so I made this little plate to hold the switch. It works better this way anyway because it gives me some wiggle room to adjust the switch. The switch barely opens just as I turn the handle the last few degrees to latch the canopy.

Here is abetter shot of how the canopy latch switch works.

The plans don't call for the washers between the spacer tubes and the flanges of the oil cooler but some guys have had some cracking on the oil cooler flanges, so I decided to add the washers.

Here is another shot of the washers on the oil cooler.

February 9, 2005 - 0.6 hours
Made up some brackets for holding the top spark plug wires. Actually all I did was secure the right side ones to the fuel return hose and the left side I screwed it to the cross brace for the baffles.

April 2, 2005 - 0.5 hours
I been struggling with exactly how I wanted to support the spark plug wires leading back to the Mag. I decided to use some of that nylon corrugated tubing that is split down the side to put the plug wires in and then support that.

This is a picture of the spark plug wires supported in the split nylon tubing.

The spark plug wire support on the left side of the engine.

Another shot of the left side spark plug wires

June 13, 2005 - 2 hours
Filled and attempted to bleed the brakes. I have them pretty well bled but there is a little air in them that still needs to come out. My problem was the silly little pump that I used to fill the system. The idea is to use some kind of pump to fill the brakes from the bottom up but I think the one that I used was putting air in the line. I'll try again with a better pump.

June 17, 2005 - 2 hours
I started fixing the filtered air inlet. I installed the split ring on the AFP fuel controller upside down and that moved the whole thing down a half inch. Now it's right so I have to cut the inlet duct off and re-fiberglass it.

This is what the FAB is supposed to look like. The split ring is now under that plate. This raised the whole thing up about a half inch which made the inlet duct on the cowling fit poorly.

June 18, 2005 - 0.75 hours
I glassed the new inlet duct for the FAB.

Take two on the inlet duct. It's not as difficult the second time. Especially when things fit the way they are supposed too.

June 19, 2005 - 1 hours
I put another couple of layers of glass on the inlet duct. I sanded off the foam and then put two more layers around the two layers that I put on yesterday.

This time I only put two layers of cloth inside the foam. Now I'll put two more around it from this end.

June 21, 2005 - 0.75 hours
Trimmed and sanded the new induction air inlet on the cowling. I added some filler to get it all nice and smooth. There is still some sanding in my future.

June 26, 2005 - 1.3 hours
I borrowed a regulator and a gauge from work this weeked to check my Oil and Fuel pressure senders. I assembled a small test right with it and used shop air to test them. They both worked perfectly. I also boiled some water and checked my oil temperature transducer.

This is the regulator and guage that I borrowed from work to test the oil and fuel pressure senders.


Disclaimer:
This web site and the infomation contained within it are for entertainment purposes only. The opinions expressed on construction techniques are my opinions only and should not be confused with proper construction techniques. There is undoubtedly more than one way to build an airplane and some methods that I use may or may not work in any given circumstance. If there is any question please call the kit manufacturer. I love to help but I am not responsible for the misuse of any information contained on this web site.

 March 3, 2016
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