April 11, 2017
The first tank I built I riveted in all the ribs in one session (like the manual says) and then installed the level sender plates and the tank vent line. The second time I didn't rivet in the inboard rib because I had forgotten some things on it. I decided that I would go ahead and install the fuel tank vent and the sender plates with that inboard rib off. It was much easier.
The trick on the vent line is the wire that runs with the capacative fuel sender plates has to be installed at the same time the vent line is. I did anyway because I terminated the wires beforehand. This meant that I had to install the sender plates as well as the vent line all before the inboard rib goes in. Well the inboard rib has that little BNC fitting for the sender wire to solder too. It won't go in from the inside so you can't have it both ways. I found that it was not difficult to solder that little wire onto that BNC connector after the rib was installed.
Does this make sense? The order that I did the second tank was to terminate the wires for the senders (I did this because I borrowed a $400 terminating tool from a co-worker) then put in 6 of the tank ribs leaving the inboard rib out. Then install the plates wire and vent tube (don't forget to flare it and put the ferrule and nut on the tubing) then install the inboard rib, and solder the wire to the BNC connector. It worked quite well.
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